I would lie if I told you that over the years I didn’t come to Firenze to do some shopping.
In fact, it got to be a joke with some old friends there.
New shirts, new leather gloves, new ties, new socks, new underwear. But I am a planner, and I never had to get new luggage.
Some of my shopping runs have stopped; but, most things that you may want or need are within a five-minute walk of the Ponte Vecchio, near the Mercato Nuovo, unless you are just slapping a gold-card down everywhere, then head to the pedestrian zone on Via de’ Tornabouni either from or toward Piazza di Santa Trinita. Actually, even if you don’t go shopping, take a stroll there. It is one of the most lovely parts of town, and if you think you are going home with cash in your pockets because you weren’t tempted, maybe you will empty them slightly by turning near the Arno and sitting outside for a coffee or an aperitif.
The Mercato Centrale is a fine source of porcini mushrooms, truffle products, candy and wine. If you don’t want to haul it home, there are no rules that say you can’t get started on your memories in your hotel room.
If you are in Florence for leather, it surrounds you in many open air markets, near the Capella di Medici, or in the walk from behind the Palazzo Vecchio to Santa Croce.
A word. If you might be induced to shop as a savings, most times it does not materialize because in order to receive your VAT (tax) refund, you can only get your paperwork stamped at the last “port” of exit out of the EU – and, you have to show your goods to the custom’s agent. This means if you shop your little heart out, you have to find a way to bring all your goods on a flight, say to German or Switzerland (without missing your flight home), where there are luggage restrictions. There are practical issues with getting the refund; so, if you are shopping, don’t break your own heart by thinking you are doing it for a discount. The firms providing the refunds vary, and in traditional Italian style, if you mail the refund documents to them from the United States, it may take 6 months to see the refund. Keep a copy of your documents. You may need to follow up or the money may never come.
Let’s give you a heads up on a few spots and if you are a shopper at heart, some milestones to orient you on your visit.
Libreria Edison
Piazza della Repubblica 27 – 50123 Firenze
If you are seeking a cornucopia of books, face the colonnaded walkway when in the Piazza della Republica. Veer right. You will find four stories of books, including a café in a store that sells everything from technical tomes, non-fiction, foreign novels, foreign language tutorials, maps and popular fiction.
Luciano
Via Porta S. Maria 10/R.
This may be a sister store to Martelli below. Their primary wares are leather gloves, mostly with cashmere linings. If you are close if you’re near theBronze Boar – just walk toward the Ponte Vecchio and look left as you go toward the River Arno. This is a few doors down from Martelli which you should spot first.
Martelli
Via Porta S. Maria 18/R. www.martelligloves.com
All they sell here are gloves. For men. For women. To fall in love with. If your hands ever get cold, I recommend you start warming up your life here. If you are close if you’re near the Bronze Boar – just walk past the Mercato Nuovo toward the Ponte Vecchio and look left as you go toward the River Arno.
Mercato Centrale
Via Galluzzo, 50123 Firenze
You may not be in the habit of touring meat markets and grocery stores while on vacation, but this is the motherlode if you decide you want to tour where restaurants and Fiorentines buy their ingredients. You will find pasta stands, wine shops and florists inside. Beware what you purchase as you may not be able to import everything you buy here when returning overseas. You should be safe if you have porcini mushrooms, truffle salt or truffle oil – just be sure it’s wrapped well and doesn’t spill. One stop I can recommend for deli items and cooking implements is Baroni (www.baronialimentari.it).
L’Occitane en Provence
Via del Corso, 60/R, 50122 Firenze
One reason travel issues are water off a traveler’s back is because most places I visit seem to have a L’Occitane. If you don’t want to find a pharmacy you might like, your neighborhood L’Occitane will carry soap, creams, shampoo or whatever else you body might require.
Officina Profumo – Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella
Via della Scala, 16, Firenze. www.smnovella.com
This is an old-world pharmacy that was started by the Dominican order and continues to make soaps, tinctures, and a variety of products for health and cosmetic purposes combined. A great stop for unique gifts, and oddly known to Americans as a landmark. They completed a major renovation during the summer of 2012, and the interior is old worldly slick. They even upgraded their purchasing system; when you buy something, they give you an electronic card that you bring to the main cashier who will have your order waiting for you, and you pay there. If you purchase their pot pourri you will discover it is the consistency of moist mulch when you open it. Wild.
To locate the main store, walk away from the basilica Santa Maria Novella, which is the church across from the train station. Turn right down the street, and you will locate a blue and white awning several blocks down to your right.
They maintain a smaller store, with equally high customer service, at Via de’ Tornabouni 71R, as well as within the Savoy Hotel (Via Roma 2).
Quercioli e Lucherini
Via Porta Rossa 45/r – 50122 Firenze. Tele: 055-292035. Email: quercioli.firenze@libero.it
This is the place where the mantra about “you are what you eat” stops. Technically, you are what kind of underwear (“mutanda”) you sport, and this place has some of the finest. They sell intimates for men, but mostly for women. No touching. Founded in 1895.
The store is off of Via Porta Rosa toward the direction of Mercato Nuovo.
Vin e Delezie
Via dei Banchi, 45/R. Tele: 055-215686
Italy sports few liquor stores, other than for tourists and locals in need. Here’s one with decent prices and owners who know their stock inside-and-out. They are a block off the Piazza Santa Maria Novella, on the corner.